Zamena ulja za kocnice i vrsta ulja

[Gost]

Interesuje me da li neko zna kako se menja ulje za kocnice i da li se uopste menja ili se samo dopunjuje?

Koja vrsta ulja za kocnice ide za Aflu 145 TS 1.4?

[Gost]

ako nema vazduha ne treba da se menja...moze da se dopuni a ide DOT 4 koliko se secam...ako fali ulja trebalo bi da pali onu lampicu kao kad je podignuta rucna kocnica posto ona sluzi i za to

[Gost]

Upaljena mi je uvek lampica za ABS, ne znam da li je to signal da mozda fali ulje koje mi je na minimumu skoro ili mi je neki senzor za ABS otisao ko ce ga znati? Pokusaci sa dolivanjem ulja. Kako znas kada imas vazduha u kocionom sistemu kada ti je kocnica meka tj. propada ili ...? Da li znas neko ulje za kocnice marke Selenia?

[Nigy]

Interesuje me da li neko zna kako se menja ulje za kocnice i da li se uopste menja ili se samo dopunjuje?

ako nema vazduha ne treba da se menja...moze da se dopuni a ide DOT 4 koliko se secam...ako fali ulja trebalo bi da pali onu lampicu kao kad je podignuta rucna kocnica posto ona sluzi i za to

Prosto ne mogu da verujem koje je pitanje postavljeno, a jos manje kakav je odgovor dat!!!!
A toliko je pisano na temu po forumu! Jos da mi je znati cemu sluzi Search opcija...

Service and maintenance

Most automotive professionals agree that brake fluid should be flushed, or changed, every 1-2 years. Many manufacturers also require periodic fluid changes to ensure reliability and safety. Once installed, moisture diffuses into the fluid through brake hoses and rubber seals and eventually the fluid will have to be replaced when the water content becomes too high. Electronic testers and test strips are commercially available to measure moisture content. The corrosion inhibitors also degrade over time. New fluid should always be stored in a sealed container to avoid moisture intrusion.

Brake fluid is not considered a "top up" fluid. If it is low, there is usually a problem. Brake fluid level in the master cylinder will drop as the linings (pads or shoes) wear and the calipers or wheel cylinders extend further to compensate. Brake fluid level may also be low because of a leak, which could result in a loss of hydraulic pressure and consequently, a loss of braking ability. As a general rule, brake fluids with different DOT ratings should not be mixed.

Brake fluid can be dangerous as it is toxic and highly flammable. It will also lift or strip paints and other coatings on contact.

Brake Fluid

At the beginning of the Automobile’s history, brakes were usually applied by means of levers, rods or cables. This made design cumbersome and in the event of a cable breaking, brakes were lost altogether. Hydraulic braking systems were first introduced in the early 1920s, not long after the introduction of four-wheel braking systems. The fluid that is now used in our braking systems has changed somewhat from the early brake fluids that may have contained mixtures of castor oil and alcohol.

There are basic requirements in order for modern brake fluid to carry out its important job. The fluid must be compatible with brake system rubber and metal components, resist deterioration by moisture or air, have suitable characteristics of viscosity and also have a high enough boiling point to resist vapour lock even under extreme braking conditions.

Most brake fluids today are made from mixtures of polyglycols, glycol ethers, borate esters and corrosion inhibitors. This allows them to meet existing requirements as well as being economical to manufacture. These fluids are miscible with any water that may be in the system and they are compatible with the rubber components that are found in brake systems.

Maintenance

Just like coolant, the corrosion inhibitors and stabilisers in brake fluid deplete over time and so must be changed regularly. They are also hygroscopic which means that any moisture within a braking system is absorbed throughout the entire system rather than collecting in spots. This reduces the chance of localised corrosion or boiling. The moisture is drawn through the master cylinder cap as well as through the brake hoses. After only one year DOT 3 fluid can contain as much as 2% water, depending on seal and hose condition. In poorly serviced older vehicles it is not unusual to find fluid that has 7 or 8 % water content. This moisture content slowly thickens the fluid, reduces its ability to flow and also decreases its ability to stop corrosion. One of the most significant changes that increased moisture brings is a decrease in the fluid boiling temperature. 2% water content can result in a 90° C drop in its boiling point. Brake fluid can commonly see 150 – 200° C at the brake callipers. This combination of lower boiling point along with high temperatures can introduce vapour lock under adverse braking conditions, with potentially fatal results.

Premature seal failure

The most common cause of premature seal failure is contamination of the fluid when servicing. Swelling of the rubber seals occur because of the introduction of petroleum-based products such as engine oil, power steering fluid and other oils. Even a small amount on a cleaning rag is enough to do major damage. Cleaning solvents can also affect the rubber in the seals and so should be kept away from the fluid areas of the braking system. Contamination can also come from abrasive dirt or foreign material entering the reservoir when the cap is removed. Always ensure that the cap and surrounding area is clean before removing the cap and make sure that the cap is clean and dry before refitting.

Which fluid should I use?

Vehicle manufacturers all have their own fluid standards that vary from model to model. It is important to check these requirements before adding any fluid, especially if done so during the warranty period.
However, the general rule of thumb for choosing a fluid is to use the highest-grade fluid that the budget will allow. DOT 4 fluid can usually be used where DOT 3 is specified, unless otherwise recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. You cannot however use DOT 3 fluid where DOT 4 is specified. By following these guidelines, it will ensure that the boiling point is always well above the minimum requirements of the vehicle. It also pays to buy a reputable brand to ensure consistent quality of the fluid.

Storage and Handling

Brake fluid should be stored in its original container in a clean and dry location away from heat. Once opened, replace lids immediately after use, and use entire contents as soon as possible. Sealed containers normally have a shelf life of two years.

Brake fluid is chemically similar to many paint solvents and therefore has a detrimental effect on automotive paints. If any is spilled on paintwork, wash it off immediately with water, do not wipe it off with a rag.

Increasing complexity in brake systems and brake fluid has meant that we have to be evermore vigilant and careful when servicing and maintaining our braking systems.



Brake and clutch fluid levels

Before checking the fluid level, clean the area around the reservoir cap thoroughly. The fluid level must be kept close to the MAX level line.

Caution

* Use only the type of fluid specified by you vehicle's manufacturer.
* Do not mix different types of fluid.
* In the event that the brake or clutch system requires frequent topping up you should get you vehicle inspected by your local accredited workshop.
* Do not allow brake fluid to make contact with your skin or eyes. Brake fluid will also damage paintwork and should be washed off with water immediately if spilled.

[Gost]

Da li ima neko uputstvo kako zameniti ulje za kocnice?

[Flavio]

Skini Repair Manual odavde http://193.219.82.238/~manual//Workshop%20manual%27s/ za svoj auto.Tu imas to i sve drugo bitno .how to. .

[DushanSD]

Kad kocis ako malo vuce na neku stranu ili zanosi znaci da ima vazduha a lampicu za ABS ti pali verovatno zbog neispravnosti nekog senzora ili se nesto otkacilo, mozda je i do plocica, diskova, nekog kocionog cilindra, nedostatka ulja, sta znam. Treba prekontrolisati. Inace kad upali lampicu za kocnice desava se da su se plocice stanjile, klipovi koji ih guraju su morali da se rasire tj idu napred i automatski ulje ide dole tj spada nivo. Kod strica na Ford Fiesti je bio taj slucaj skoro, rekao mi je da valja kad se menjaju plocice da se na crevo gde se ispusta vazduh ispusti malo ulja jer se tu nakupi necistoca. Inace ako je sve ok a nivo ulja spada to znaci da ti kaplje negde sto automatski povlaci prisustvo vazduha u kocionom sistemu, mozda i neki cilindar nije OK. Kazu da UK ulje ne isparava, neki kazu da se ne menja nego samo doliva ali ja stojim pri tome da nekad valja i njega zameniti, inace se samo doliva, naravno ono koje je za to predvidjeno jer kad se pomesa ili slicno kazu hoce da peni, to sam ja cuo, nije provereno ali verujem da je tako, i sa motornim uljima kad se pomesaju a da nije ista, npr mineralno i sinteticko ume da napravi veliku stetu.
Pozdrav

[dekideki]

1. kupis kvalitetno ulje, ali drugacije boje no sto je to koje je sad u sistemu.
skines tocak, skines gumenu kapicu sa ventila za ispustanje vazduha, nadji okasti kljuc broj 8.
2. preko knap navuces plasticno providno crevo koje je oko pola metra do skoro metar dugacko i drugi kraj zaronis u praznu flasu za kociono ulje, da ne curi unaokolo.
3. spricem sa crevom na vrhu izvuces svo staro ulje iz posude za dolivanje
nalijes novo ulje do vrha
4. otpustis ventil, drukas kocnicu, a neko doliva u posudu ulje da ne padne nivo i cevi povuku vazduh
5. gledas u ono providno crevo kad se promeni boja, taj deo sistema ima novo ulje u sebi. pa polako sve tockove
*neke firme prave DOT 5.1 u dve boje da bi lakse ovo radio a da ne moras da menjas marku. predlazem ti Motul, Castrol i Ate. nisu skupa, Motul 5.1 koji sam ja sipao je 500din 0.5l (sasvim dovoljno).
6. dolijes nivo na kraju i to je to.

*ulje se bezuslovno menja na dve godine. kociono ulje upija vazduh u sebe sto mu je duze izlozeno. i ulje iz kantice koje vam sluzi za dolivanje - ako vam stoji otvoreno a neiskorisceno do kraja duze od dve godine bacite ga, potpuno je neupotrebljivo.

*btw, isti rok za zamenu u motoru vazi i za rashladnu tecnost (2 godine).

**kociono ulje marke Selenia je verovatno Tutela DOT4...

OPREZ: u gornjem citiranom (inace odlicnom tekstu) fali napomena da je ulje DOT5 predvidjeno samo za trkacke kocione sisteme i potpuno je opasno za upotrebu u vecini serijskih automobila, zbog toga su napravili ulje sa slicnim performansama a da moze da se koristi i u serijskim automobilima i oznacili ga sa DOT5.1

[Flavio]

Odlicno Deki,detaljno :cool !

Dodao bih samo.Koga mrzi da se bakce zamenom ulja za kocnice ,neka se spremi za remont kocionog sistema posle 3 do 4 godine upotrebe jednog istog ulja.Dakle,rasturanje kljesta,vadjenje klipova,zamena svih gumica,zamena glavnog kocionog najverovatnije i da bude srecan ako nemora i neka kljesta i klip da menja.
Problem je sto AT ulje vremenom,sve vise apsorbuje u sebe vlagu koja njega samog kvari + izaziva unutrasnju koroziju svih metalnih delova kocionog sistema.Rezultat toga su sve veci zazori delova,koje posle odredjenog vremena gumice vise ne mogu kompenzovati,jer se i one ubrzano trose pa krece curenje ulja.

[Gost]

Hvala puno na odgovorima i uputstvu.

[srdjan_p]

E care ne moras da otvaras milion tema...

[Gost]

Znas kako kazu od viska ne boli glava. Mislim da osnovno pravilo foruma da se organizuje po temama i bolje je da ima sto vise razlicitih tema nego da se sve trpa u jednoj kao sto sam i primetio ovde sto moze da iritira. I ja sam u pocetku sve u jednoj temi postavljao pitanja ali ovako je pregledije kasnije prilikom trazenja.

[Gost]

LanMi sve je to super ali ja ne videh da si se predstavio u virusu...

[Gost]

To nikako da uradim lepo sto si me podsetio. Nikako da stignem da slikam svoju alficu, treba da je operem lepo izglancam, a dan je kratak. Sooonnnn.... kolege, malo strpljenja.